Buena para caminar

One of the first things that attracted me to my site when I first heard about it was the possibility for extending health care to some of the more remote communities surrounding my town. I had visions of me traveling on horseback for hours, admiring the hills covered in rice and corn fields, connecting with those so isolated from everything else. But months passed in my service and the only times I went out into the communities the health center personel and I would go in the ambulance. Bouncing in the back of a car down muddy roads so impossibly gouged and grooved by travelers so as to resemble mini mountain ranges did not fit into my idealistic imaginings somehow.

Finally when I chanced to hear about an outing leaving early in the morning, I simply showed up wearing my rubber boots and wide-brimmed hat. They had no choice but to take me with them. So after waiting for an hour for the attending doctor to arrive, he, a nurse from the center, and I headed to the hills to visit some patients.

You know the tired phrase be careful what you wish for? Hold onto that thought.

At first the doctor was worried about me coming along, seeing as women are dainty flowers or something of the sort, but Santos, the nurse, came to my defense saying, "No, hombre. Ella es buena para caminar." She's good at walking. Grateful to Santos, and not wanting to slow them down or appear weak, I kept up the pace. Well, at least the doctor and I kept the same pace, Santos is in another league, and was constantly well ahead of us both.

The man is a BEAST.

We visited ten houses, navigating empty corn fields, dried and dead after the recent harvest. At each one we stopped while Santos and I took vitals, and the doctor prescribed high blood pressure and anti parasitic medication. Afterwards we would sit for a little and enjoy the fresco, or the coffee, or oranges, or whatever the family would offer us, while we tried to steel ourselves to keep walking.

Santos taking vitals.

This particular area is built on very high, very steep hills, so that most of our walking was straight uphill, but for most of the time I felt good; I was energized and enthusiastic to be experiencing a unique day. We even traveled through a cacoa grove.

Asking for directions in the cacoa grove.

This is what the pods look like inside.  You can eat the white pulp, which is bittersweet, then let the seeds dry and make chocolate.

It wasn't until we reached the last house, with a woman whose eyes are so glazed with cataracts they look blue, that I began to feel the strain of the day. We had started out at eight that morning and it was past two in the afternoon, and we still had at least two hours hard walking to get back to town.

She asked me when I was going to visit again.  I said I didn´t know.  It took us more than four hours to reach her house.

With the local brigadista leading the way, we made it back by five, but by that time my legs were shaking, that I lost my footing on a particularly muddy hill, and fell on my butt. Just the doctor saw it, and he was just as tired as I was so I didn't lose too much face. He still offered to carry me back to town though. I declined. Politely.

That´s him with one of our last patients.

More and more people kept showing up from the fields to have their blood pressure checked as well.

Then this little guy showed up too.

Even though I was sore for days afterwards, and even though my prideful delusions of myself as still in shape after months of a sedentary life were utterly destroyed, I am glad I went. Seeing the faces of the people I met in these photos, and the fact that the perpetually serious Santos has smiled at me twice now since then, makes me feel like I made, if not a difference, at least a connection.

La Purísima and Graduation

Two big things have happened since I got back from a whirl-wind vacation with my parents.  The first was La Purísima, or the celebration of the Immaculate Conception.  This is celebrated as kind of a Mary themed trick-or-treat.  Houses put up shrines to Mary and then people go from house to house, singing prayers, and then the family hosting the singers will give out candy and plastic buckets, cups, and other items with the Virgin Mary´s image imprinted on them. 

My host family´s shrine.

The crowd waiting for their treats.

Also there are fireworks.  Lots and lots of fireworks.

(I tried to load a video of the fireworks here, but after thirty minutes of waiting, I gave up.)

Then, yesterday, I was invited to the graduation for a CICO, which is kind of like a Kindergarden graduation.  All the kids were looking very cute in their uniforms, and the parents were very proud.

Then, after everyone got their diplomas, there was a Santa-shaped piñata to destroy.

To the victor go the spoils...

And then what kind of party would it be without some dancing?

Sweet Treats

I was at the local corner store buying some bananas and oranges when I saw something that caught my eye.

Jelly-filled marshmellows.  I had to buy a few.

 

I decided to try the sour apple first.   Where are these from I wonder?  Does anyone recognize those characters?

 Mmmm.  Tastes like sugary...green.

But then I found something amusing on the wrapper.

Marshmarllow.

Soya Success

A while ago, after finishing a charla at one of the three day-care centers in my town, I asked the mothers gathered there what they would like to learn about next.  One of them surprised me by saying she and the other women had been curious about cooking with soy, and would like to learn more about it.  It turns out the organization that helps out this day-care center gives the women in charge a whole sack full of soy beans every month, but never having cooked with it before, they didn't know what to do with it.  So the next time we met, I brought some recipes and the ingredients, and they brought two pounds of soy beans that had been soaked overnight.  It's quite a process to turn the raw bean into soy milk and soy meat (and even longer if you want to make tofu), but two of the mothers, one of the women from the daycare, and I worked as a team...okay, actually they did most of the work because I am not confident in the kitchen...and we were able to make some darn good soy milk, flavored with cinnamon and sugar, and soy chorizo.  Once we were done sweating and gossiping in the kitchen, I took some pictures of the kids with their lunch.

Serving up the soy chorizo.

This little boy picked out all the onions, but said it tasted good.

 The best soy milk I've ever tasted.

Here I am with some of the leftover chorizo I took home with me.  I experimented by putting some beans in the mix when I heated it up again, but it tastes good either way. 

There were definitely some hiccups with our little cooking experiment; it took us longer than we expected to get it done, and some of the kids had already gone home by the time we got around to serving it, and we forgot to cook rice to accompany it, since a meal with no rice is no meal at all.  In the end though it went really well, mostly because the women took charge, and learned through an actual hands-on experience, but most importantly because they invited me back to cook with them again.  So what soylicious recipes should I make with them next time?

Spaced

Last night a toad decided he wanted to be my new roommate.

I prefer him to the chickens who will occasionally sneak in and poo on the floor, but I didn´t want him in my room if I could help it, so I started trying to shoo him out with my shoe.  He proceeded to hop around and hide behind things, until I had finally chased him under my desk when he started hissing at me.  At that point I decided I needed help, mainly because I had never heard a toad hiss before and was freaked out, so I called my host cousin who promptly screamed and ran away when she saw the toad.  I stood there, alone (except for my new warty friend) with my shoe in my hand, thinking that maybe it was a bad idea to have told someone, and deciding that I would have to take care of this myself.  I eventually got him out from behind the foot of my desk, and had him hopping away when my cousin can back, and with a squeal, threw a steaming liquid on my departing friend.  She told me it was hot lemon juice and salt, which would kill him.  Apparently there is the idea that these toads leak a poisonous "milk" from their skin, making them extremely dangerous.  I´m not sure if this is true, in fact I´m fairly certain it´s not, but it explains the screaming...I just hope the lemon juice doesn´t actually kill him, otherwise I will feel like a terrible host.

The Return of the Baby Alien Fruit!

While I was in Ecuador I discovered the granadilla, a fruit that looks like the pod for dozens of alien eggs, at least that is how one friend of mine described it.  I though that was as weird as most of my fruit adventures would ever be.  I underestimated Nicaragua.

This is a mamon chino on the outside, all spiky and blood red.

Inside it harbors its sweet tasting alien goo...I mean fruit. 

They are in most markets now, and cost about 70 cents the dozen, which means that for less than a dollar you can infect your face with as many baby aliens as you could possibly want.

Don´t You Mean Sardonic?

Sarcasim is a languange not spoken here often in Nicaragua, but obvious questions are very frequent.  This will help to explain what happened when I carried my dirty clothes and laudry soap over to the lavandero one day, and my host niece asked if I was going to wash my clothes.  Slightly amused with what I thought was a silly question I told her no, that I just like carrying around my dirty clothes and soap arround.  Just por gusto.  She then said good because she had a lot of washing to do, and proceeded to wash for one hour while I waited for her to be done.  Serves me right, I suppose, for being a smarty pants.